"EXPERIENCE
IS THE MOTHER OF KNOWLEDGE"
Sukothai
March 20, 2006
 "The
History of Sukothai dates back to 1238, founded by two
Siamese generals, who helped to push the Khmer from
this area. For over a century a society developed in
Sukothai which is seen to be the Thailand as we know
it today. Theravada Buddhism was introduced and Sukothai
became a thriving religious and commercial centre. The
ceramics industry also flourished, centered in the town
of Si Satchanalai. This continued on until Sukothai
eventually lost its power and became a vassal state
of Ayutthaya in the 15th century."
( http://www.wayfarersthailand.com/sukothai.htm
)
In The Early Morning Ruins
5:30 a.m., it's still dark; even the dogs aren't up
yet.
I walk from the guest house to the main road, looking
for the 6 a.m. bus to the old city.
 6:30
a.m., 3 open-air wooden schooners with wheels (and engines)
roll up to the bus stop. Beautiful. Myself and three
locals board the vessels bound for the ancient capital
of Siam. The old city is located in a flat, low-lying,
valley and spreads out over 70 sq. km. These are ideal
conditions for a slow, meandering, day-long bike tour.
At 7 a.m there are only park workers, touring high school
students and me.
 As
I roll along the paths through the rising Stella and
spires, I suddenly inhale a rich and exotic fragrance
that excites my complete being. I know this perfume.
It's a blossom or an aromatic wood. I've sensed it before
but never this pure and fresh. I also know that nature
always intensifies in early morning and that this scent
will soon be consumed by the chaotic rush of the day.
I focus my search.
I breath deep, relax and let it fill my entire body.
But where is it coming from? A group of students and
guides are standing near a group of Stella. Is it their
perfume? No, it's not present as I pass them. I come
to a still pond with floating blossoms. Now the fragrance
is gone again. At one site, a row of huge flowering
trees form an entrance . Yes this is it. No, wait, maybe
not. The subtle fragrance is elusive but all pervading.
Just when I think I've named it, it floats off to somewhere
else. Here in the remnants of this once great civilization,
I wonder if it isn't an essence of Siam.
Lesser Travelled Roads
 Eventually
I head out in search of another site 4 km west of here.
Apparently it is on a hill with a great view of the
old city. After about 10 km I think maybe I've missed
the turn and start back. But that's OK because the ride
has been great. I think partly why I've always loved
biking and cross country skiing is because of the rolling
landscape and pure independence. Another reason is the
spiritual and meditative nature of independent travel.
The countryside is dotted with small farmyards and the
occasional open-air shop/cafe. At one such cafe there
is a road leading up a hill and a sign that reads "Experience
is the mother of knowledge." with directions to
a monastery 2 km further along. A short detour may be
worthwhile. Besides, I've always been a sucker for enigmatic,
hand-painted signs and obscure out-of-the-way places.
The morning has become the afternoon.
The road climbs sharply for a bit, curves and levels
out along side a reservoir. A short time later the road
becomes too rocky to travel on with a bike intended
for flat pavement. Reluctantly, I turn around. On the
return trip I am greeted by a solitary monk.
"Are you coming to my home?" he asks with
a truly glowing face.
 "This
man," I think "has certainly found inner peace."
He tells me he is one of a handful of monks who maintain
and preserve an ancient retreat which he calls home.
I want to turn around again. I want to continue on this
synchronistic path. And even though I believe that synchronicity
leads a person to unique opportunities, I realize this
journey has been more intentional and planned and not
so synchronistic. Regrettably I say goodbye and ride
on.
 The
trip back to the old city is uneventful. I find the
hill site shrine and climb a huge raw-stone staircase
to the top. The view is not as good as expected but
the Buddhist statue is impressive. At the bottom of
the hill several schooners full of screaming students
wave and shout garbled English greetings as they roll
past. I slowly return, getting lost once and riding
another extra 5 km. But that's OK. I'm happy going slow
and enjoying the day.
The Dream Cafe
Greg Brown wrote a lilting song called "The Dream
Cafe". It speaks of lovers that no longer love
one another but meet each night when asleep in the Dream
Cafe. I don't think Greg has ever been to Sukhothai
but imagine my delight when I read a review in a local
paper of a Cafe with the same name. The food is supposed
to be good and the decor unique. It's my last night
here and I am famished from the day's long ride.
 A
Cafe or an 18th century antique collection? The food
is superb; the best Thai cuisine to date. I have a masan
curried shrimp, spring rolls and a marigold salad. I
also have the cafe specialty, a "stamina"
shot of herbs steeped in alcohol called the "Golden
Bell". It tastes similar to "Jägermeister"
only at 100 proof. It could pass for rocket fuel.
The decor is simple; old and cluttered. New Age Thai
music plays softly in the background. Everything, even
every inch of wall space is covered with 18th century
articles. Elaborate teak and glass display cases house
clocks, silverware, bottles, silk scarfs, books, bobbles,
trinkets, photos, literally thousands of pieces. I am
told it is the owner's private collection. Even with
such clutter it is very relaxing to be there enjoying
all the sights, sounds and smells. Later I return to
JJ's guest house, a comfortable refuge built by a Belgium
fellow who married and settled in Thailand and who makes
killer crusty rolls. I leave tomorrow for Ayutthaya.
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