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Happy New Year from Granada, Nicaragua

Granada, Nicaragua, January 4, 2003

Granada is a great place to be. The town is very colonial, very clean and in some respects very quiet. Some people come for a week and stay for years. I have been here for 2 weeks already. It is a place where nothing and everything happens. The Hospedaje Central sets the pace - laid back, good people and good times. New Years came in noisy and hot. There were parties in several places but Central was the best. Everybody just hung out at the sidewalk Cafe in front of the Central. Ironically, that's what we did most days playing dominoes, drinking coffee and chatting with the international travelers.

I had the good fortune of meeting Vladimir Salorzana from El Salvador. He knows an incredible amount about the history and politics of Central America. He told me many interesting stories of the conflicts in both El Salvador and Nicaragua. Valdimir works for an organization called Doctors without Frontiers.

We also spent a couple of days visiting small villages in the surrounding area. Santa Catarina has an incredible view overlooking an extinct volcano which is now Laguna de Apoyo, a fresh water lake formed in the volcano's crater. Next we went to San Jaun Del Oriente where the Cooperativa Quetzales has its main pottery workshops and market. The cooperative was formed by some of the local woman a number of years ago. I was completely in awe of the variety and quality of the artisans creations.

The next day we joined a family from Costa Rica - Norberto, Lili and Andreas and went to Masaya for the day. Masaya boasts of a huge artisans market housed in a restored fort. It is a very beautifully designed building with many shops of leather, woodwork, pottery and paintings but the Masaya market seemed more souvenir oriented than Cooperativo Quetzales. All in all though, it was a great day with good company, conversations and lots of sightseeing so not much else mattered.

I also met a fellow Canadian, Don Peterson from Golden, B.C. He has a Tattoo studio in Granada and is building a house in San Jaun del Sur where the surfing is great. Don has been traveling for a number years throughout the world. He acquired the art of tattooing through the many people he met while traveling. For many travelers, body art is a parallel journey with great significance. For some, it is a form of recording a journey or experience. For others it is a ritualistic rite of passage that involves the endurance of hardship or pain. Body art is also very personal. Originality is highly appreciated and respected. In choosing a tattoo you need to first choose a serious tattoo artist. Over the years, Don has worked with many styles ranging from Celtic to classic dragons. He focuses more on traditional, cultural origins of the design and then adds his own creative inspirations. Currently he is greatly influenced by Haida design from the B.C. coast and the Mayan hieroglyphic style.

The tattoo I chose has several elements of symbolic significance in my life; a musical note, a karmic spiral, the North Star and the wind. It is original, part my design, part Don's and it looks fantastic. Thanks Don. Originally I was going to put up a photo but I changed my mind. Some things are personal and should only be shared in person. Maybe we will meet someday and you can see it then.

As for now, I return to Esteli for a cultural immersion course that I have enrolled in for a week. I'll let you know all about it. After that, I am going to San Juan del Sur or the Corn Islands; not sure which one first. Happy New Years, cheers from Central America.

Previous entry: Merry Christmas from Nicaragua


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