Leaving Las Lajas: Part 3
Las Lajas, Panama, March 10, 2003
Another
long bus ride and I do not feel like meeting any new
people. I watch the scenery roll by. We are high in
the mountains, even above the clouds but it all looks
the same. Then the bus overheats and we are stranded
halfway between San Isidro and San Jose on this mountain
road. An hour later another bus comes by and some of
us run over with the hopes of boarding. There is only
room for a few and we are the fortunate ones.
I get to San Jose and head immediately to the Tica Bus station. I am thinking of catching a long distance bus to Managua but the cost is ridiculously high and the earliest bus is not until the day after tomorrow. It is late afternoon. I will stay the night and catch another bus to the border tomorrow. I look for the guide book's recommended hotel but it burnt down a year ago. After several more frustrating attempts I get a room far from the bus station in a seedy part of town. Now I would like to meet someone but there is no one else staying in the hostel that night. Tomorrow will be better I tell myself.
The next day I take the bus to Liberia near the northern Costa Rican border. I have been travelling nonstop for 3 days now and I am still in Costa Rica. I wonder if I am trying too hard to travel fast. There were places I wanted to stop but something inside made me feel I must go on. Since Las Lajas I have been listless and out of sorts but have avoided exploring these feelings. I just write them off as the blahs after having such a meaningful experience in Panama. Deep down I know this is not true.
Liberia is another typical big city. It looks clean and prosperous with new
buildings and paved streets. The bus station is efficient
and organized. Backpackers and locals alike mingle in
the relaxed atmosphere. There are no bus hustlers shouting
out destinations. People actually wait in lines for
departures. There is no pandemonium here.
Then I spot the only unusual looking character in the crowd and he is walking right over to me. He is in his 40's with long hair and a beard, he has no shoes and carries a staff. He is dressed in a long white robe. He greets me with a smile and we talk for awhile. He is from the area and has been travelling for about 17 years.
"All over the world?" I ask.
"No, just in Costa Rica," he says "and I still haven't
been most places," he adds. I do not broach the topic
of religion and neither does he. We talk some more and
then he touches his forehead to my shoulder, blesses
me in Spanish and moves off into the milling crowd.
The day is still early. I decide to catch the bus to
Playa Coco instead of the border. One more beach and
maybe some time to reflect on all that has happened.
Playa
Coco turns out to be a relaxed and not too commercial
tourist resort. It appears to be geared more towards
Costa Rican vacationers. The bus drops everybody off
at the Central Park which is next to the beach. I find
a nice place called "Camping Chopin" that is well removed
from the town but just a short stroll to the beach.
In the mornings, I spend most of my time at the beach exercising, swimming and just watching the surf. A giant Manta Ray jumps not once but three times, gliding gracefully over and then into the water again. In the clear, curling surf I see a fully inflated porcupine fish floating just beyond the swell. In the afternoons, under the shade of the Mango trees, I read the daily newspapers and write in my journal. I spend most of my time alone, thinking of recent events, searching deeper for clarity and understanding.
When I started this trip 5 months ago I had specific
objectives I wanted to accomplish. Most of these were
simple; become fluent in Spanish, learn new music, gain
inspiration for new songs and work on my writing skills
through this website. I am not completely fluent but
now I think in Spanish which totally amazes me. The
mandolin has opened up an entirely new world for me.
My guitar is getting jealous. I have reviewed my early
journals and humbled editing has already begun.
My
other objectives are not as tangible nor so easily accomplished.
These objectives concern spirit and personal growth.
If you are to understand deeper truths about yourself
and the world, you must practice humility, acceptance
and an openness to new situations. For example, I reviewed
the earlier journals and was shocked by how frivolous
and superficial my writing could be.
When you travel, there is always something new and
exciting to discover; new sceneries and new encounters
that distract you from the smaller, important details.
Distractions are fine as long as the deeper significance
of the event is not obscured. Ironically, I was afraid
to reveal too much of my thoughts, believing I would
"look bad". Fortunately I wrote all my thoughts down
in my personal journal.
Since leaving Las Lajas, Panama I have been aware
but avoiding the fact that I am on my way "home". I
did not want this journey to end and I did not want
to return to everyday life. I started thinking of ways
to continue this trip instead of focusing on positive,
new beginnings. Once I realized this, it felt like a
great shadow had suddenly dispersed. Maybe the trip
physically has to end but the journey I started 5 months
ago will continue for the rest of my life.
What
I have come to know about synchronicity has continued
to occur through out my entire trip. Playa Coco was
no exception and neither was my final destination of
the Mayan ruins at Tikal, Guatemala.
This has been the longest and most difficult journal entry to date so this is where it ends. Listen to your spirit ... even if you don't like what it is saying. Thanks for taking the time.
Previous entry:
Leaving Las Lajas:
Part 2
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