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Leaving Las Lajas: Part 3

Las Lajas, Panama, March 10, 2003

Another long bus ride and I do not feel like meeting any new people. I watch the scenery roll by. We are high in the mountains, even above the clouds but it all looks the same. Then the bus overheats and we are stranded halfway between San Isidro and San Jose on this mountain road. An hour later another bus comes by and some of us run over with the hopes of boarding. There is only room for a few and we are the fortunate ones.

I get to San Jose and head immediately to the Tica Bus station. I am thinking of catching a long distance bus to Managua but the cost is ridiculously high and the earliest bus is not until the day after tomorrow. It is late afternoon. I will stay the night and catch another bus to the border tomorrow. I look for the guide book's recommended hotel but it burnt down a year ago. After several more frustrating attempts I get a room far from the bus station in a seedy part of town. Now I would like to meet someone but there is no one else staying in the hostel that night. Tomorrow will be better I tell myself.

The next day I take the bus to Liberia near the northern Costa Rican border. I have been travelling nonstop for 3 days now and I am still in Costa Rica. I wonder if I am trying too hard to travel fast. There were places I wanted to stop but something inside made me feel I must go on. Since Las Lajas I have been listless and out of sorts but have avoided exploring these feelings. I just write them off as the blahs after having such a meaningful experience in Panama. Deep down I know this is not true.

Liberia is another typical big city. It looks clean and prosperous with new buildings and paved streets. The bus station is efficient and organized. Backpackers and locals alike mingle in the relaxed atmosphere. There are no bus hustlers shouting out destinations. People actually wait in lines for departures. There is no pandemonium here.

Then I spot the only unusual looking character in the crowd and he is walking right over to me. He is in his 40's with long hair and a beard, he has no shoes and carries a staff. He is dressed in a long white robe. He greets me with a smile and we talk for awhile. He is from the area and has been travelling for about 17 years.

"All over the world?" I ask.

"No, just in Costa Rica," he says "and I still haven't been most places," he adds. I do not broach the topic of religion and neither does he. We talk some more and then he touches his forehead to my shoulder, blesses me in Spanish and moves off into the milling crowd. The day is still early. I decide to catch the bus to Playa Coco instead of the border. One more beach and maybe some time to reflect on all that has happened.

Playa Coco turns out to be a relaxed and not too commercial tourist resort. It appears to be geared more towards Costa Rican vacationers. The bus drops everybody off at the Central Park which is next to the beach. I find a nice place called "Camping Chopin" that is well removed from the town but just a short stroll to the beach.

In the mornings, I spend most of my time at the beach exercising, swimming and just watching the surf. A giant Manta Ray jumps not once but three times, gliding gracefully over and then into the water again. In the clear, curling surf I see a fully inflated porcupine fish floating just beyond the swell. In the afternoons, under the shade of the Mango trees, I read the daily newspapers and write in my journal. I spend most of my time alone, thinking of recent events, searching deeper for clarity and understanding.

When I started this trip 5 months ago I had specific objectives I wanted to accomplish. Most of these were simple; become fluent in Spanish, learn new music, gain inspiration for new songs and work on my writing skills through this website. I am not completely fluent but now I think in Spanish which totally amazes me. The mandolin has opened up an entirely new world for me. My guitar is getting jealous. I have reviewed my early journals and humbled editing has already begun.

My other objectives are not as tangible nor so easily accomplished. These objectives concern spirit and personal growth. If you are to understand deeper truths about yourself and the world, you must practice humility, acceptance and an openness to new situations. For example, I reviewed the earlier journals and was shocked by how frivolous and superficial my writing could be.

When you travel, there is always something new and exciting to discover; new sceneries and new encounters that distract you from the smaller, important details. Distractions are fine as long as the deeper significance of the event is not obscured. Ironically, I was afraid to reveal too much of my thoughts, believing I would "look bad". Fortunately I wrote all my thoughts down in my personal journal.

Since leaving Las Lajas, Panama I have been aware but avoiding the fact that I am on my way "home". I did not want this journey to end and I did not want to return to everyday life. I started thinking of ways to continue this trip instead of focusing on positive, new beginnings. Once I realized this, it felt like a great shadow had suddenly dispersed. Maybe the trip physically has to end but the journey I started 5 months ago will continue for the rest of my life.

What I have come to know about synchronicity has continued to occur through out my entire trip. Playa Coco was no exception and neither was my final destination of the Mayan ruins at Tikal, Guatemala.

This has been the longest and most difficult journal entry to date so this is where it ends. Listen to your spirit ... even if you don't like what it is saying. Thanks for taking the time.

Previous entry: Leaving Las Lajas: Part 2

 

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