|
Lake Atitlán, Guatemala,
November 14, 2002
My original intention was to stay in San Pedro on
Lake Atitlán but synchronicity had other plans
in mind. The infamous Chicken bus ride had begun. We
had to change buses 3 times. The first ride was nice,
easy pace and pleasant scenery. The next driver showed
us the meaning of chicken bus by passing on corners
and white-knuckle curves. The last driver was more god
fearing and kept the speed to mildly nerve wracking.
This last stretch gave me a chance to relax and check
out the other passengers. Adam from Indiana was talking
with 3 Swiss girls who were also headed for San Pedro.
He was living in the area and did not recommend San
Pedro. He was going to San Marcos, where a big celebration
was happening that night with music and food. Well that
sounded like a plan so when he asked where I was going,
I smiled "San Marcos". "Do you have a place to stay?",
"No I don't", I said and he told us of a really nice
posada and that he would show us where. He also helped
us get deals on the bus and boat rides. Adam plays percussion.
He plans to stay for some time and has started playing
with a group of clowns that travel to remote villages.
The road curves and twists around the lake as we get
closer to the main town of Panajachel.
Just before town, the Volcano San Pedro comes into view
across the lake. It's a magnificent sight rising above
the surrounding hills. The entire town is surrounded
by a ring of volcanoes, none of which have been active
for sometime. We arrive in Panajachel just in time to
catch the next boat down at the docks.
The launch has a low roof with tarped sides to keep
the spray out. Everybody piles in and we are off to
San Marcos. The crystal blue water drops off quickly
once we leave shore but remains clear and light blue.
All along the shore houses and villages are carved into
the steep volcanic hillside.
Finally we make San Marcos and are lead from the dock
up the walkway through the forest. San Marcos is deceptively
simple. The forest begins at the dock and gradually
extends up hill to the village. All along the way paths
and walkways intersect with each other. These paths
lead to the meditation center, and various restaurants
and hotels. We arrive at La Paz where we will stay.
It is a virtual oasis in the jungle. Benjamin, the owner,
greets and shows us the rooms. Mine is a loft with a
thatch roof. Liz and Julia from Australia are on the
main floor.
The entire place is slightly overwhelming with beautiful
gardens, new age and holistic themes. Everything healthy
for the mind, body and spirit. There is a lot of activity
in preparation for the party tonight. Christina is having
a birthday. I meet some of the musicians that will be
performing. Moti plays guitar. Cat will perform a celebrational
dance and Nicki and Heimi will perform a fire dance.
I watch as they practice the entrance song. It is a
beautiful lilting Hebrew song that has been partially
translated into English.
May the love we share spread its wings
and fly around the earth
and sing a song
to all the souls that are alive
May the blessings of your grace my love
shine on everyone
and may we all see the light within
the light within
May all the beings of the world be happy.
That evening was a special time. Although I had just
arrived, I felt very much at home. We played and danced
all night, all of us, the children, the young and old
from all around the world. San Marcos is truly idyllic.
I could easily work and live here for months. Time is
very slow and the best thing you can do is nothing.
After 3 days of relaxing, I finally made it to San
Pedro. The back road is paved and small trucks ply the
route offering rides. A truck stops and we climb in
the back. This is when I wished I had a motorcycle.
What a great feeling with the wind rushing past as we
continue on to the next village. San Pedro seems to
be more of the same as San Marcos but the village appears
desperately poor and run down. I poked around there
for awhile and then ... back to San Marcos and then
off to Panajachel in the morning. I am getting anxious
to head to Rio Dulce and the coast for the Garafuna
Festival.
Stayed the night in Panajachel. The artisan market
is much more extensive with better quality than what
I saw in Antigua. One woman was selling beautifully
embroidered silk scarfs. Deep earth tone colors with
bronze and teak highlights. Wow! She had a shop full
of them.
That night I strolled the main market and came upon
a street vendor where several locals were gathered.
They were listening to a friend playing the Quechwa
flute with great skill. I asked him how long he had
played the flute and he smiled modestly saying he was
just learning. I laughed and told him I was just learning
too, for the past 30 years. This brought laughter from
everyone. Enoh began playing another Bolivian folk tune
with equal skill. As I left he continued playing for
his friends there in that small circle of pale yellow
lamplight. The day's cares and the night were elsewhere.
Previous entry: Antigua,
Guatemala
|
