The life unexplored
is a life unknown.
If you want to know, you must go.
Bangkok, Thailand
January 2, 2006
"The Train"
 The rickety old train pulled out of the station in a cloud of purple
smoke. It was 2nd class with slippery vinyl seats and hazy windows
blackened by exhaust but we had air con. One and a half hours to Bangkok,
the big city. I didn't know what to expect. I'd read about Bangkok. My
friends had told me stories about it. Hua Lamphong station was supposed to
be swarming with razor thieves but I couldn't remember if that was the
train station or the bus station.
"The Man in Black"
Don't talk to strangers. I'll probably be murdered for my passport.
There's a tendency to believe a travel guide like it is the only gospel.
But really, it is only gospel to the person who wrote it. During the trip,
I was suspicious of everyone except the older man dressed in black. He
looked like a heavy weight contender wearing a black t-shirt, black jeans,
black cowboy boots and a black belt. All the uniformed people saluted him.
No razor thieves in sight.
"The Station"
Hua Lamphong station was a step back in time. I expected to see top hats,
petty coats, horses-drawn carriages and steam engines. The arrival
platform is covered by an immense, arched, glass-paned roof that dates
back to 1910. The entire station; the platform, the hall, the shops, all,
have been perfectly restored and maintained. What a pleasant surprise and
arrival for the legendary city of Bangkok.
"Strangers and Dangers"
All the hype about pollution and danger just wasn't true. People here move
in the same way. They wake up and start the day in the same way. The poor
are more visible and numerous but maybe they are more anonymous and easier
to overlook because of that. Yes, of course there are dangers. All places
have dangerous areas and times. Travel guides tell you not to talk to
strangers and don't accept gifts either. Earlier at a market, I had bought
some coconut candy for the kids in Korea. Then I realized it wouldn't stay
fresh for long. So I gave it away. Yes, strangers can be dangerous.
"Ramble"
 I only had two days in Bangkok. On the last evening
I was getting together with friends I had made in Chiang
Mai. The first day (late afternoon) I walked around
to become familiar with the neighborhood, found a nice
restaurant and did a bit of shopping. Early the next
morning I took the skytrain to the river and caught
a river taxi to the Grand Palace. River taxis are like
dragsters on water. The huge engine is mounted on a
long thin propeller shaft that also doubles as the tiller.
The sight boggles the mind. The boat trip is about 45
minutes with various stops along the way. The rivers
and canals of Bangkok seem to be a whole different culture.
I wish I had had more time to explore them. Getting
off the boat I walked through a crowded little market
to the street and there it was.
"The Grand Palace"
 There is a King in Thailand and he plays the jazz drum. He also sails among
many other things. The former residence of the monarch
is one of the more popular attractions in the city.
I tried to get a sense of how it would be to live here
surrounded by all the brilliant color and obvious luxury.
Imagine, having the best of everything from birth. What
truly amazes me is the intricacy of detail and design
that everyone in Thailand seemingly possesses to reproduce
incredible works of art. I saw this type of detail all
over Thailand.
"One Night in Bangkok"
 I had met Paul and his girlfriend in Chiang Mai at
the small pub he owns. His girlfiend was going to an
awards banquet in Bangkok so the three of us promised
to meet for my last night in Thailand. After a great
dinner of "Esan" (north-eastern Thai food), we went
to a local rock bar where Paul used to play guitar.
There were two bands that night. The first was a funk/rock
trio with really superb vocals. These guys were tight
and they really got the place hopping. Paul got up and
did a few tunes at the manager's request. Paul's a great
singer and plays more hard-edged rock. This went over
well and led into the next band smoothly. The four piece
all-girl band were really hard core, straight ahead
rock with a few ballads thrown in for good measure.
Afterwards, we all sat down, had a few drinks and shared
stories til the wee hours, all compliments of the manager.
It was a great last night in Thailand.
Next: Ayutthaya:
the history of Thailand in a Grand Gala Performance
Previous entry: Fukuoka,
Japan: The Visa Run
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